![]() You can also find products from further afield: Amazonas is a South American grocery that sells Inca Kola, a hugely popular greenish-yellow Peruvian soft drink. Cafes and stalls such as Cerveceria Raypi and El Kiosko offer traditional fare such as tripe-based callos a la madrileña, often considered Madrid’s signature dish (€4.50). While the best time to buy provisions may be earlier in the day, the market buzzes with life in the after-work hours. This behemoth is the largest municipal market in Europe, with 200 stalls where locals stock up on regional specialities such as suckling lamb from Burgos, jamón from Extremadura and, at Casa Serrano, an impressive variety of spices including saffron from La Mancha and pimentón (paprika) from La Vera region. Market open Mon-Sat 10am-10pm, Sun 10am-3pm restaurant open Sun-Thurs 10am-midnight, Fri-Sat-10am-1.30am Mercado de la Paz ![]() While you can buy quality meats, cheese and other foodstuffs at this market to cook at home, you won’t find many local grannies shopping here. The top floor restaurant has a terrace with views of the city where locals, expats and tourists kick back with “gin tonics”. Affordable regional treats include an assortment of Basque pintxos at Puturrú de Foie, such as risotto of foie gras and mushrooms (€3), or a glass of Asturian cider (€1) with a variety of cod-based tapas at La Casa del Bacalao. La Imperial offers Andalucian-style calamari (€9) and cocido madrileño (€10), a rich chickpea stew with vegetables and meat. Its 22 vendors sell everything from fresh produce and meats to cooked regional specialities. More food court than traditional market, this venue is in the LGBT-friendly district of Chueca, known for its nightlife and shopping. Open Sun-Wed 10am-midnight, Thurs-Sat 10am-2am Plaza de San Miguel, mercadodesanmiguel.es. Prices are higher than Madrid’s more traditional markets, but neither the atmosphere nor the food at the market’s 33 stalls disappoints. Don’t miss the mouth-watering displays of oysters, cava, chocolate, caviar, gulas (imitation baby eels made from surimi), and stuffed sea urchins. Try La Hora del Vermut for an aperitif of the house vermouth (on draft, €1.50), or grab a caña (small beer, €2) from the Beer House, a glass of rioja (from €3) from any of several wine kiosks, or taste sherries paired with tapas at the Sherry Corner. Alongside stalls selling fresh produce are tapas bars offering a wide variety of treats such as gambas al ajillo (garlic prawns) and banderillas (small skewers of olives, cucumbers, peppers and pickled onions). The historic wrought-iron-and-glass Mercado de San Miguel, just off Plaza Mayor, has become one of the liveliest culinary spots in the city since it reopened in 2009 after a nearly six-year restoration.
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